Kalamkari, The Pen Art of Andhra Pradesh, is now popular in the whole world
Do you know which city in India is famous for biriyani ?....
Yeah, you got it right. Bhagnagar.
Uhhh, don’t squeeze your eyebrows. I know listening to this statement can raise a series of questionnaires on your mind.
Hyderabad is the biryani capital, you knew that from the early days of your life. Then how come ‘Bhagnagar city’ came into this whole scenario?
That’s the story, dear reader.
Muhammad Quli Qutub Shah, the sultan of the south, once fell in love with an hindu dancer, named Bhagmati.
The love was so intense that he couldn’t stay without seeing her once a day.
But she used to live across the Musi River, which was far away from Shah’s palace.
So meeting her is nothing but a ‘big fat’ drama.
One day, a ferocious storm came, but his urge to meet with his girlfriend made him even more desperate than before.
Despite the elder’s advice, he plunged into the river’s swirling water with his horse.
And this historical jump, dear reader, sourced a lot of romantic folklore in the south. But what made it more interesting is that during his jump, he kept his ‘kalamlari purse’ with him.
That's the illusory beauty ‘Kalamkari print' possesses.
If you still wander through the corridors of the Calico Museum in Ahmedabad or roam around in the chaos of the south indian temple, this cloths surely grab your attention.
History and Evaluation of Kalamkari Art
The term ‘kalamkari’ is derived from the Persian word kalam, which means pen, and kari, which means work. So the phrase literally means ‘Pen-work’.
But before the term even travelled to India from Persia in our Mahabharata, the same artwork is mentioned with the name ‘chitra vastra.’
The detailing of which depicts that it was nothing but the ancient version of today’s kalamkari print.
The printing is done with a special technique. This technique is called the ‘Mordant printing’.
So, what is this mordant printing all about?
Cotton can’t absorb the vegetable dye, which is why a special chemical has been used to colour the pattern-designs of the saree. After the colouring process ends, different minerals are used to make the colour long-lasting on the fabric.
Sometimes, the whole fabric is dipped in the milk to fix the colour.
European ladies used to call it chintz, and Dutch traders named it sitz. But our folks from Gujarat and Rajasthan just call it ‘life’, affectionately.
Different Types of Kalamkari Print
There are basically two types of Kalamkari, Srikalahasti and Masulipattanam. In Srikalahasti, the pen-work is used to draw narratives of the deities in south temples. And in Masulipattanam, the kalam art is used to design Persian aesthetics and floral motifs.
Now, a new style has been introduced by the artisans of Tamil Nadu, which is called Sickinaikkenpet. Artists used a bamboo stylus to paint Asmangiri (ceiling canopies) and Thombai (cylindrical hanging), and other different subjects on the fabric in srikalahasti style. This special art is called vasamalai by them.
But though it has been painted in the Srikalahasti style, it carries a distinctive vibe which makes it slightly modern and relevant in today’s world.
But an art, which got its significance from the time of the Mahabharata to Qutub Shah’s love story, how is it still relevant in modern times? How is this even related to Biriyani Capital?
Dear reader, Bhagbagar is nothing but the ancestral name of Hyderabad. Before the Mughals renamed it the 'city of the Hyders', meaning the 'city of lions', the place was previously called 'Bhagnagar'.
And Kalamkari's history was also closely tied with the city, not because of its aesthetic vibe, but because of its contribution to building a bridge here.
Wondering how?
Then, let me tell you Qutub Shah’s love story fully.
After Qutub’s drastic decision to risk his life for his girlfriend, his father built a brand new bridge upon Musi River. That bridge is called ‘purana pul’, which still exists now in Hyderabad. And the whole city where his girlfriend, Bhagmati, stayed was named Bhagnagar by Qutub’s father, Sultan Ibrahim Shah.
FAQs
1. Is Kalamkari print similar to Kalamkari paint?
Yes, they are the same. Kalamkari prints are done using the blocks, and then the colours are added using a bamboo pen. While using the pen, the painting is done on the saree.
2. Difference between Kalamkari art and Kalamkari designs
Kalamkari designs are done in different styles. But after the design work completes the whole fabric is defined as Kalamkari art.
3. Which type of Kalamkari garment is now popular?
Kalamkari print saree, Kalamkari saree cotton, Kalamkari blouse, Kalamkari kurtis are now trending garments of today.
4. Which city is famous for the Kalamkari saree?
Srikalahasti and Machilipatanam are famous for their Kalamkari sarees.
5. Why are Kalamkari Sarees costly?
Because of its intricate printing technique, the original Kalamkari Sarees are very costly.
6. What is the price of a Kalamkari saree?
Kalamkari Sarees price range starts from 10k, and it can go up to 60k to 70k.
7. How to identify a pure Kalamkari Saree?
The uneven stripes, the tiny checks, and the smudged paints are the signature patterns of Kalamkari, so if you watch this on the fabric, then you can be assured that this saree is a Kalamkari saree.