Jamdani Saree is not just a saree; know what it is

Let me begin today’s blog with a small story from the Mughal court. 

One day, Aurangzeb was furious with his daughter. The reason was simple. Zeb-un-Nissa, her beloved daughter, entered the royal durbar without dressing properly.

The emperor, known for his strictness, did not tolerate such things. So naturally, he scolded her. 

The princess was quite unbothered by her father's reaction. and replied calmly that she had wrapped herself in seven layers of muslin.

Seven layers?  Yes, you read it right, seven layers.

That, dear readers, was the magic of muslin.

Though there are multiple layers of clothing, it is still so transparent that the emperor could not see it properly.

And muslin without ‘Jamdani work’ looks like a princess without her crown.

So, Jamdani gives muslin not only its beauty but also its flow. 

Jamdani Saree, An Art Older Than Empires

If you think jamdani is a recent craft, then you are totally wrong. 

This weaving technique is so ancient that it even appears in the pages of the Arthashastra written by Kautilya around the 3rd century BC.

The origin of the word ‘Jamdani’ is a mystery even today. Some historians claimed that it comes from the Persian word ‘Jam’, meaning a cup, and ‘Dani’, meaning a container.

Others argue that it evolved from the word  ‘Jama’, meaning ‘Cloth’  and ‘Dana’ meaning small motifs. Altogether, which depicts a fabric with small motifs. 

Although this is a centuries-old art. But this word “Jamdani” does not appear in the Mughal record, Ain-i-Akbari, written by Abu'l-Fazl. 

Instead of ‘this word’, ‘Tanjeb’ appeared, which is considered the most luxurious type of muslin in today’s world.

During the 14th Century, Aurangzeb was very fond of ‘custom-made jamdani pieces’.  Records proved that his customised Jamdani Kurtas cost over thirty pounds each during his era. 

Even today, Jamdani Kurti, Jamdani Saree, Jamdani Punjabi, Jamdani blouse and Jamdani fabric pieces are very much popular among Gen Z and millennials. 

Jamdani Saree, Where Threads Become Poetry 

Today, this weaving art still survives across South Asia. In India, you will find many skilled weavers in places like Durgapur, Nadia, Samudragarh, and Datrigram of Bardhaman district. 

Not only in West Bengal, but also in the Tanda of Uttar Pradesh, across the border, Dhaka remains the legendary hub of Jamdani sarees today. 

But here is something many people don’t know about. The beauty of Jamdani begins even before the loom starts moving.

Before the weaving method begins, the yarn undergoes a special process called ‘sizing’. This process is performed to strengthen the yarn so that it can survive the friction during weaving.

The weavers use a special starch mixture made from parched rice starch and sago starch, and a small quantity of neem oil. 

Even the spun also prepared during the morning, when the air carries high moisture. The time is bound because in the morning, humidity helps cotton fibres to stay strong and flexible for a long period of time.

Then the weaving process starts.

The base fabric is woven first. But the real magic happens when the motifs are added.

The speciality about Jamdabi motifs are they are inserted in the fabric by hand, using tiny thread spools called ‘tillis.’

Flower designs like marigold, lotus, coconut flower, bitter gourd, night jasmine, and crepe jasmine dance across the fabric. 

Peacocks and swans - these bird motifs are also considered the most elegant motifs of all time in Jamdani sarees.

But if you ask any weaver about his most beloved motif, many will answer you with a big smile on their face, ‘the mango motif’.

FAQs

1. What is the difference between Jamdani and Baluchori? In the Baluchori temple Motifs are used, which are complex and depict mythology. But geometric motifs are used in Jamdani 

2. What is the price of an original Jamdani saree?

An original Jamdani Sarees are very expensive. The price range starts from 80K and goes upto lakhs. 

3. Is the Jamdani Saree woven by Hindus?

Most of the weavers of West Bengal are Hindus, but the weavers of Bangladesh are Muslims by religion.

4. Where can you buy the best Jamdani Sarees or Jamdani Silk Sarees online?

Many Platforms are now available online. But people do prefer the luxury fashion houses of Kolkata as the most authentic platform for original Jamdani sarees.

5. What kind of Jamdani Garments are trendy these days? 

Jamdani blouses are now the must-have things in millennials' wardrobes. But Jamdani kurtis are also very fashionable these days.