Mashru silk was invented to bypass Pure silk. Know how?
Do you know which fabric is considered ‘the most clever one’ in the textile industry?
Wait, wait, don’t Google.
Okay, let me ask you first, why are the clothes considered as ‘clever’? And why, even today, are we still talking about this?
Stay with me till the end, because I am about to explain you the story in detail.
If there is only one thing Indians have mastered till the beginning of our civilization, that is the art of ‘Juggad’, which means the hack to solve any problems within seconds.
The origin of this ’clever cloth’ is also very closely associated with such a ‘Juggad’ story.
Origin of the Mashru Silk
It was during the sultanate days. Firoz Shah Tughluq, one of the renowned sultans, wanted to wrap himself in pure silk, as he was so attracted towards the fabric's beauty.
But God doesn’t give you what you want. That's the kind of tease we all experience throughout our lives, more or less.
In Islamic law, pure silk was considered "beautiful but unlawful." It was considered prohibited during that era.
Why?
Because of its extremely luxurious look.
In those days, it was said that this shimmery, glamorous cloth was not for the pious man. And being a sultan, Tughluq needs to maintain his ‘saintly’ image in society by not wearing pure silk garments.
But he also wants to look handsome. So what did he do?
He called up a group of weavers for the solution. After a lot of R&D, the weavers came up with a genius solution. Influenced by the Middle Eastern "Tiraz" tradition, they created a fabric which is a silk wrap with a cotton weft.
Meaning, the glossy silk stayed on the surface of the garment for the world to admire, while the humble cotton stayed underneath, giving comfort to the skin. Isn’t it genius?
The weavers named it Mashru, in Arabic, which means "permitted". So, for not being ‘purely woven silk’, this fabric now gets its place to pious man’s wardrobe.
If you translate the word ‘Mashru’ in Persian, the meaning depicts "cleverly woven."
Now, did you get the answer I asked you at the beginning?
Mahsru is called the most clever fabric in the world, for its intelligent woven technique.
It is also often described as the riot of colours for its vibrant, multicoloured stripes and arrow-shaped signature designs.
Evaluation of the mashru silk
Though Sultan Firoz Shah Tughluq is directly associated with the origin of the fabric. But during his era, it didn’t get its fame.
By the 19th century, it had its ultimate ‘celeb- status’.
From urban areas to the narrow lanes of villages, its popularity reaches its peak.
Rabri women from Gujarat, to Banjara Gypsies - all become famous for wearing such loud but delicate fabric daily.
It also has a different name in different parts of India. In Bengal, Mashru silk is called ‘Garabbasbuti’, and in Punjab, it is called ‘Shujabhani’.
But the glam of Mashru silk lies on it woven technique.
The pit loom is prepared with the calculated measurement of 2.5 feet deep, which can manage 8 harnesses and 8 treadles together.
Before the weaving starts, the yarn is coated with a thick paste made out of saras, a traditional gum, and coconut oil to get the desired stiffness of the fabric.
Once the woven completes, it is washed and beaten with a 5kg wooden hammer on a thick log.
Atleast two people are needed to execute the process. After the beating for almost 10 minutes, the yarns got flattened, coaxed, and gave the fabric a shiny look.
FAQs
1. Is Mashru is a pure silk?
No, mashru is not pure silk. It is the silks that blend with cotton.
2. Are Mashru silk and modal silk the same?
No, they are not the same
3. Which sarees from mashru silks are famous?
Mashru silk Benarasi, Mashru Katan, and Mashru Katan silk sarees are the famous sarees of these silks.
4. Which place is the Mashri silk saree origin?
Gujarat is the origin of the Mashru silk saree.
5. What is mashru silk saree price in India?
The price starts from 5k to 6k and goes up to 40k
6. Where can you get the best Mashru silk?
You can get the best Mashru silk Saree online.