Chikankari Saree, the Persian art which reigns all over the World

Mughals are fond of fabrics; from Akbar to Aurangzeb, each ruler had their own distinct taste of styling. One dies for Muslin, and the other just loved Pashmina.

Noor Jahan, the wife of Jahangir, is also known for her immense zest for aristocratic clothing. 

History documented that she was not only into administration and power, but also into social services, feminism and fashion.

During her time, she actively campaigned for women’s rights by spending all her wealth to provide dowries. 

Yes, you read it right. All her wealth.

She was the one who was also responsible for giving 500 orphan girls’ dowries, all at a time, from her own ark. 

This Malala Yousafzai, of the 17th Century, launched a new clothing style, branding it with the name ‘Narmahali dress’. 

Though she didn’t t have a prominent history linked with Chikankari’s origin,but she is the one who contributed in popularising Chikankari.

History and Evaluation of Chikankari Saree

According to many fabric researchers, this cloth had a very prominent Persian influence. The Name Chikankari is derived from the Persian word‘Chakeen’, which means a special type of fabric which is very delicate. 

An ancient manuscript depicts that a Persian traveller once came to visit India. After walking through several narrow lanes of almost all Indian cities, he became tired and hungry.

His condition invoked kindness among local villagers, so they came to rescue him. They gave him food, water, shelter, and everything a person needs as basics to survive.

Overwhelmed by their hospitality, the traveller taught them the technique of sewing chikankari.

Many others claimed that its roots are ingrained in the 3rd Century BC. During that time, Megasthenes came to visit India and mentioned a special type of floral muslin worn by Indian women in his book. 

Some saree enthusiasts say the clothes described in his travelogue resemble with nothing but the Chikankari sarees.

But where the name Chikankari is derived from can still cause an argument.

Apart from the theory of deriving the name from persian word ‘Chakeen’, historians claimed that Chakeen itself is a distorted version of the word ‘Sinquin’, which means a silver coin worth rupees 4, during the 17th Century of Persia. 

Another explanation says the Chikankari name is derived from a Bengali term, ‘CHIKAN’, which means fine thread work.

How is a Chikankari saree made?

Firstly, a plain Fabric is stamped with a temporary block-printed design. Then the intricate work is done with the fine needles, tracing the pattern thread by thread.

The front of the Chikankari saree looks quite filmy, as its appearance is very seductive. 

But once you look at the back end, it's a total mess, which showcases the honest ‘behind the scenes’ stories of creating something divine. 

The embroidery is stretched carefully throughout the body of the saree with the mesmerising motif work of Mahi ( fish), hathi (elephant), Kairi ( Mango), Dhaniyapatti ( Coriander) and Ghaspatti (Grass leaves).

In December 2008, the Geographical Indication Registry gave Chikankari its well-deserved GI Tag, declaring Lucknow its rightful home.

FAQs

1. What is so special about the Chikankari saree?

The thread work and the delicate motifs on a white Chikankari saree are very much in demand in the market. 

2. Which kind of Chikankari dresses are most trending today?

Apart from Chikankari Saree, Chikankari Kurti, Chikankari Kurti set, Chikankari suits, Chikankari Kurta, and Chikankari Kurta set are now the most trending dresses in the market.

3. Which city is famous for its Chikankari sarees?

Lucknowi Chikankari sarees are known for their best embroidery work. Lucknowi Chikankari saree prices are very high due to their complicated designs. 

4. Where can you get the best Chikankari saree for women?

The best Chikankari saree designs are now available online. Women do Chikankari Saree styling for their party looks or festive looks. 

5. How many types of stitches are done on a Chikankari saree?

40 types of different stitches, with 6 basic stitches, are used to make a Chikankari Saree. 

6. What is another name for the Chikankari?

Shadow work is another name for the Chikankari.