‘Zari’, where fabrics wear jewellery. Know which luxury fashion house in Kolkata has the premium zari garments
Imagine you are draping yourself in a saree which is woven with real gold. Sounds dramatic, doesn’t it? You may also think that I am talking about some of my fantasy spun. But no, dear, I am not.
I am speaking about an ancient craft which can make a very simple cloth into a Royal piece within days. Yes, you got it right. I am talking about Zari.’Wearing which a strange confidence filled not only your heart but your soul.
Despite the tyranny of fast fashion and impatient modern tastes, very few designer clothing stores in Kolkata continue to preserve this delicate art.
Stay with us till the end, because we are about to take you to one such fascinating place.
From ancient times, Zari Knows How to shine
Zari has always possessed quite an arrogance in textiles, not only for its royal Indulgence but also for its glittering glamour.
So, how did Zari come to India?
The word zari comes from the Persian word zar, which means Gold. Many textile enthusiasts claimed that these beautifully crafted materials travelled to India around the time of the Delhi Sultanate.
The Mughal emperors, especially Akbar, were very fond of these golden threads. That's why there is a theory that says Zari found its throne during the time of Akbar.
But many fabric researchers disregard this theory. Evidence says that during the 14th century, the emperor Muhammad bin Tughlaq employed 500 expert weavers in his capital to make gold brocades and borders in fabrics. which also resembles Zari.
So, exactly at what time Zari was invented and travelled to India can cause a real debate.
But Mughal emperors loved to drape themselves with such threads, which showcased that the Mughals popularised Zari.
Zari: A hallmark in Luxury Fashion House in the era of modern techniques
Making a zari is nothing but a fairy tale. Traditionally, the golden threads are prepared by coating silk threads with liquid gold. After the process is done, intricate patterns are woven using these threads on the fabric.
Today, the city of Surat has become the beating heart of this craftwork. India’s largest zari production hub, where metalworks are still done by hand.
During Tughlaq’s era, golden Zari work in silks was woven only for the Royal ladies. Mahammad Bin Tughlaq loves to gift these zari- bordered garments to his lady courtesans.
The real reason for gifting this glittery- designed fabric is not only for its glamour but also for its durability. Even if the silk tears, the zari border or the brocades remain intact for ages.
Now, zari is not merely a thread, used for decorating fabrics; it carries centuries of culture and traditions.
Once upon a time, the temples used Zari bordered saree to honour the deities. So Indian girls now prefer to wear zari bordered saree in their weddings, not only to look good but also to carry the culture with fashion.
Pure gold and silver zari have now become expensive. Thatwhy modern textile industry has now been introduced with some substitutes. But affordability doesn’t fade away the old magic. Purists may grumble about the authenticity, but the zari magic remains alive throughout the world till now.
FAQ
1. What is Zari?
Zari is a silk thread, which is traditionally made by soaking it in liquid gold and silver.
2. Which kind of zari thread is considered the best?
The 0.1 mm to 0.3 mm zari threads are considered the best.
3. How to check whether the zari you bought is pure or not?
If it is heavy, then you can be assured that the zari is pure. Otherwise, you can ask for the certification from the Indian Government. For identifying pure zari You can also go for the ‘Burn test’. If the zari burned within seconds, then it is not pure.
4. What is Zari's work officially called?
Zari's work is officially called Zardouzi. But all zari are zardousi, but not all zardousi are zari.
5. What is the difference between Zardousi and zari?
When the metallic golden silven threads are woven along with the silk, then it is called zari-work, but when only the golden and silven threads are embroided then it is called Zaedousi-work.
6. Is Zari real Gold?
No, Zari is not considered real gold, but the synthetic threads are coated with gold, so we can call Zari demi gold.